A Taste of the Aegean: Greek White Wines

Hello Everyone!  In a post a few days ago, we discussed some of the more common red wines and labels from Greece that you have hopefully been able to find in your local wine shop.  In addition to the red wines, we also mentioned the history and how we fell in love with Moscato di Limnos, a great dessert wine.

Muscat grapes are grown all over the world: Cyprus, Hungary, Croatia, Israel, France, Portugal, Italy, etc.  California also grows Muscat grapes, most often for white wine blends.  The Muscat grape is the basis for the sweet dessert wine Moscatel in Spain and Portugal.  Muscat Canelli is gown in Italy for use sparkling wines of Piedmont (think Moscato d’Asti), Peru’s Pisco, and many others.  It may be the oldest domesticated grape variety, and there are many theories that suggest that other vinifera grapes are descended from the Muscat varietal.  White Muscat, or Muscat Blanc, is cultivated in many regions in Greece and makes excellent dessert wines in a variety of styles: Muscat-based wines may be young or aged, and they may be used to make table wines or fortified wines in the form of Metaxa, the traditional Greek brandy.  Muscat is also used to make dry white wines.  Although our hearts are with Moscato from the island of Limnos, you are more likely to see dessert wines from the Island of Samos.  Rachel nearly got into an intense discussion with the gas station attendant when we lived in Jamaica Plain over which Greek island made the best form of Moscato.  He was from the island of Samos and insisted that Samos made the best Moscato, while Rachel favored the wines from the island of Limnos.  But in each case, the wine bears luscious flavors of apricot, fig, and honey.

In terms of dry white wine from Greece, most wines you’ll see in the U.S. are made from a grape called Assyrtiko, which is probably the second most well-known Greek white grape varietal.  Assyrtiko was first cultivated on the island of Santorini where it yields a nice dry white wine with citrus aromas mixed with crisp, earthy, mineral flavors resulting from the island’s volcanic soil. Santorini is also called Thera, and was formed as a result of one of the largest volcanic eruptions in history, 3600 years ago.  This volcanic eruption may have led to the collapse of the Minoan civilization on the island of Crete and some believe it destroyed legendary city of Atlantis. You’ll most likely see Sigalas, Hatzidakis, or Boutari as the main producers marketed in the U.S.  Assyrtiko can also be used together with the aromatic Aidani and Athiri grapes for the production of the unique, naturally sweet wines called Vin Santo (wine from SANTOrini), well known since Byzantine times.

Another wine to look for is the Amethystos White, which is a blend of Assyrtiko and Sauvignon Blanc, and maybe some Semillon from Macedonia.   Assyrtiko from Macedonia has a milder, fruitier flavor than the wines of Santorini.  Therefore, you’ll want to check the label to determine the origin and your preferred style. We like Assyrtiko on a hot summer day nice and chilled – it reminds us the sights, sounds, and smells of the Aegean where we spent our honeymoon.   

Moschofilero is the next most popular white grape that you may encounter.  It is produced mainly in the appellation of Mantinia in the Peloponnese region of Greece.  Wines made from this grape are more floral and aromatic than Assyrtiko, and has aromas of roses and violets with hints of spices.  It makes a great aperitif wine and we highly recommend trying it at a Mediterranean or Greek restaurant if you see it on the list.  We recently had the opportunity to visit Taverna Kyclades, a great Greek restaurant in Astoria, Queens, where we ordered a carafe of the house white wine - a Moschofilero.  It was perfect with our Greek salad, tzatziki, grilled shark, and lemon potatoes.  In the past we have purchased Cambas from Mantinia, but you may come across Boutari, Domaine Spiropoulos, Skouras, Gaia Notios, or Tselepos.

Another grape that might be more difficult to find is Lagorthi, currently undergoing a revival and planted mainly on mountain slopes in Kalavrita in the Peloponnese.  These wines have a very crisp acidity, which is the result of the higher malic acid content of the grape.  Like many of the Greek varietals, it has great aromas that combine peach, melon, and herbal flavors with citrus and mineral notes.

You might be lucky enough to come across a few other white varietals, but the five we’ve talked about are the main grapes and may also be blended with others.  Overall, the wines are generally inexpensive and are very refreshing.  Next time you have seafood or are looking to change up your routine, try one of the Greek white wines.  After all, it is the nectar of the gods.

Drink what you like, like what you drink!