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Monday, February 11, 2013

Mediterranean Flavors – The Basics


Hello Everyone!  As promised, we’ve been expanding our focus beyond wine, and to that end, we wanted to talk about one of our other biggest passions, food!   And one of our favorite styles of food comes from the Mediterranean region.   Mediterranean food received quite a bit of attention in the early ‘90s as part of the discussion around the “French Paradox”: the apparent ability of the French (and others who consume a similar diet) to eat cheese, butter, and other saturated fats, but still have a lower incidence of cardiovascular disease than in the US.  While the French – and others around the Mediterranean – may generally be healthier than those of us in the US (residents of the Italian island of Sardinia can boast one of the longest life expectancies in the world), it’s likely that there are a number of other factors that contribute to that long life span.  That being said, no one ever was considered less healthy due to a Mediterranean-style diet!

The Mediterranean style encompasses not just the more obvious countries in Europe, but also north Africa and the Middle East as well.  The foods from each of these regions have their own cultural identities and variations, but have several common themes. 

Much of the food in the Mediterranean arose from two basic concepts: locality and practicality.  People consumed what was local and readily available to them.   It was also important that the food was fresh, or could be stored without refrigeration.  Therefore, one common theme across the Mediterranean countries is the use of uses salt for curing (through a brine or dry cure), usually seasoned with a citrus and garlic.  Then the specific regional influences are layered in with herbs and spices.  The most common meats tend to be fish, chicken, lamb, and pork, depending on the specific culture.

Interestingly enough, many of these foods are considered "peasant foods" – because of the simplicity of the ingredients.  Inexpensive items such as polenta, rice, pasta, couscous, beans, or chickpeas are frequently added to the meal to provide bulk, giving enough energy to easily get one through the day.  A few country-specific variations, each making full use of that country’s natural resources, are described below.

In Spain, it is common to see extensive use of olives and lemons.  These are often combined with garlic, almonds, and eggs.  A common pairing is seafood (shrimp or scallops) with some form of cured pork, with sweet or smoked paprika as seasoning.  Spain is fairly famous for its pigs, and pork is served in many different ways, from roasted to a Spanish specialty, Serrano ham.

France uses the potato to add bulk to its foods, and bread is also a common staple.  There is a great deal of diversity to France and some of the influences include mustard and herbs of Provence, which contain lavender.  Olives, capers, and shallots figure prominently in French food.  Crème and crème fraiche are common in where dairy is used.

In Italy, the oranges which are commonly grown across the southern part of the country are used as well as lemon to contribute to the citrus flavors.  The combination of herbs such as basil and citrus create a great flavor profile.   Northern Italy, Tuscany, in particular, is known as the "Land of the Bean Eaters,” and legumes are a common addition.  Pasta is common but more often as a small side dish or appetizer, not as we typically see it in our Italian style restaurants in the US!  One of our favorite combinations is polenta with a sauce or melting cheese, and an additional garnish of herbs or nuts, such as pine nuts.  Fennel and other anise flavors appear in some dishes.

Moving further east towards Greece and the Middle East, things begin to change a little and you pick up more chickpeas and eggplant as the building blocks.  The “brown” spices such as cumin, coriander, ginger, cinnamon, and allspice are more commonly used.  Fresh herbs are key, such as thyme, cilantro, and flat parsley, as well as oregano for earthy tones.  Yogurt figures in more prominently as the dairy component, rather than cream or milk.

Going into the North African region, we add a whole new dimension with harissa (a hot and spicy paste based on chili peppers) and preserved lemons, in addition to the Middle Eastern ingredients named above.  Preserved lemons are the ultimate combination of salt and citrus and it the rind that is more highly prized.  In addition, the flavors of tamarind and sumac are common, giving the dish a sometimes earthy, sometimes fruity flavor.  These ingredients were common prior to the later, more widespread use of citrus fruits in cooking.

We hope this gets you started in thinking about Mediterranean dishes.  Just remember, start with your choice of brine, citrus, and garlic and blend in the regional items.  And of course, don't forget to pick up your favorite wine to go along!

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